Trapping fox help

[davet]

I have usually called in fox and shot at and killed or shot at and missed 'em in the past. However, this year I think I'd like to pick up about 6 traps and take a "stab" at trapping 'em. I've done a lot of reading about hay set's, boiling the traps, dipping 'em, anchoring the traps, but since this is all new to me, I thought I'd post a general question here and ask if there are any experienced trappers who could give me any pointers of what to do (i.e.: setting trap pan tension weight, a good...or better dirt sifter...etc) or a good or best type of swivel for the trap chain. Best type of rubber gloves and\or best type of bag to carry "stuff" in.

Thanks

Dave

[davet]

Is it better to go with a #2 Bridger 2-coil or 4-coil? Is an offset Jaw better to use than a "standard" (fully closing) jaw?

[Deleted]

longbeard is the guy to ask. hes big into trapping.

[longbeard2372]

dave I use Duke 1.5 and bridger 1.65 traps. All are fully modified with base plates, jaw laminations and replace stock chains with usa made #2 straight chain and put a min of 2 crunch proof swivels on it but most times 3. one at the base plate, one in the middle and one to attach the MB chain stake. I use reg. jaws over offset and run 2 coiled. The mods are a must in my book because there are coyotes in every county of the state now and they will destroy a trap that isn't. I run zero pan tension but night latch every trap. I run 99% dirthole sets and use pre-sifted peatmoss with a very light covering of dry dirt to keep any wind from blowing it off. I set with bare hands unless it cold. Then I use the cheap brown jersey gloves to set. I do wear those rubber coated cotton gloves to bait with. I carry my gear in those cheap canvas zipper bags that craftsmen sells. I get a 20" and 12" onsale for like $10. Bait & urine rubber coated gloves in the small bag and trowel, sifter, stake driver, 2lb sledge, 2 - 4 traps, 2 gal ziplock bag full of sifted peat and a second full of dry dirt in bigger bag. I clean all oils and grease off of new traps, Boil/dye them and hang to dry. Once dry I give them a lite coating of wax and they are ready to use. No need to rust new trap. they will be rusted good by the second season.
Here's what my rigs look like...

nite latch...

baseplate...

Typical remake after a catch with fresh turds and stepping stones just on the outside of the lose jaw. Levers at 5 & 10 o'clock. pan 6-8" from hole and offset 3" to the right for a right pad catch 99% of the time.

[davet]

Way cool LB. Thanks for your response and your info.

-I understand the 2 coil.
-I guess that is enough spring to hold a coyote should one get trapped in it?
-I gotcha on the chain and crunch proof swivel modifications. 3 on each trap. Makes sense. (I couldn't get that from my other readings...how many & where)
-Are you setting two traps per set?
-I don't understand what "nitelatch" means? I do understand the zero tension on the pan.
-Do you double steak your traps (steak on each one?) and how deep do you drive the re-bar? (I assume you use re-bar)
--And....do you adjust, or can you adjust the spring tension weight set off (I don't think I'm saying the same thing as pan tension) when the animal steps on the trap. As I read it the trap should be set somewhere between 1.5 and 2 pounds of weight to set it off. To light and you get nothing. To heavy and you get nothing.

Again, thanks for your help.

Dave

[longbeard2372]

Aug 3, 2014 21:29:31 GMT -5 davet said:

Way cool LB. Thanks for your response and your info.


-Are you setting two traps per set?
-I don't understand what "nitelatch" means? I do understand the zero tension on the pan.
-Do you double steak your traps (steak on each one?) and how deep do you drive the re-bar? (I assume you use re-bar)
--And....do you adjust, or can you adjust the spring tension weight set off (I don't think I'm saying the same thing as pan tension) when the animal steps on the trap. As I read it the trap should be set somewhere between 1.5 and 2 pounds of weight to set it off. To light and you get nothing. To heavy and you get nothing.

I set one trap per set unless I run into a fox that likes to work the set from the backside of the hole. You will run into one sooner or later but for the most part you can use heavy guiding to put the paw where you want it.

I don't double stake. I use chain stakes. They have 16" of chain attached to the super stake. I conect them with a crunch proof swivel. Then 6" of chain & another swivel, Then another 6" of chain and another swivel connecting the chain to the trap. I get all my stuff from mtp.com here's a link to chain stakes...
www.minntrapprod.com/MB-Chain-Stakes-Original-dozen/productinfo/CSORIG-12/

Nitelatch is a small notch filled into the the pan. I back file the dog on the bottom at a 45 degree angle and make sure all the nitelatch corners are sharp, clean and crisp 90 degree corners. The notch is approx. 1/8" sqaure filed into the pan. When I make a set I completely cover the trap with peat leaving the pan set real high. Just before I put the light covering of dry dirt on I set the nite latch with my thumb by lightly and slowly pushing down on the pan until I hear the audble "CLICK". the night latch is now set.

You can not adjust a traps spring tension only pan tension with the brass nut/bolt that connects the pan to the frame of the trap. I use a free fall pan with run no tension. Yes many say 1.5-2 lbs and this and that for this and that critter. I target fox but a coon every now and then helps with the fuel costs and not to mention I want to catch every critter that vists my set. When you do catch something in a set that set is now HOT. Every critter that comes into the area will see the fresh catch circle and smell it as every animal pees and poops while there. When I pinch a skunk I just smile cause I will no longer need to bait or lure this set cause every fox will come to it cause they love the skunky smell.

[davet]

LB....your a treasurer trove of info. Thanks. Now, I"m a "visual" kind a leaner...so I usually have to see it. So, I looked on youtube and this kid (even half out of focus) demonstrated how to file the notch

And then this guy's demo actually did a better job of what happens after the notch is filed and how it works.


You have increased my "learning curve" even more!! Thanks!!

One more question....and this should give you...if not a wide smile...maybe a real LOL....but I've read many post of what to do when a skunk is trapped. Right now my though is just approach with a 22-LR pistol (slowly with skunk looking at me) and give it a head shot. Any suggestions? Stop laughing before you answer!!! rofl

[longbeard2372]

dave asks "Right now my though is just approach with a 22-LR pistol (slowly with skunk looking at me) and give it a head shot. Any suggestions?"

What I do is approach the skunk on the up wind side and put a well placed 22 short through the lungs. They don't always not spray but if they do it's ussually just dribbles out instead of spraying like a fountain. After the shot I stay a while to make sure it has expired and if it didn't pee to much I remake the set if it smells real bad I just head on down the line checking traps and go do the remake after I get off work. ALWAYS make sure you are UP WIND !!!!!!

The 2nd video is a good one. Mine only differ by that I don't file mine so far towards the center of the pan and I file deeper towards the top and I square off the the area towards the dog to make a nice sharp, quick firing trap. I use the same file as the kid in vid #1.

[longbeard2372]

If you are looking for a good instructaul video Leggets fox trapping methods video is probably one of the best I've watched that is has the same type of ground in it as we have in Pa. Money well spent if you ask me. Best $30 spent in my book.

trapleggetts.com/catalog.html

[davet]

LB, nothing better than an experienced trapper to have access to pick his grey matter. A few more questions if you don't mind:

1) Do you carry a 22-LR rifle or handgun? I have both and a CCW, so I can carry either. Just wondering which you prefer?
2) I have a good grasp of using and how to set the chainstake. Now, do you own and use one of Minnesota's stake drivers? Or do you use a piece of rebar?
3) I still assume you replace the stock chain that comes with the #2 USA chain. (Can you give me a link to find #2 USA chain? I can't seem to find it)
4) How deep do you drive the chainstake? (I realize it's soil dependent....but "normally")

Thanks again.

Dave

[longbeard2372]

dave asks... "Do you carry a 22-LR rifle or handgun?" I carry a rifle in my truck (the same one I've been carrying on the line for 32 yrs) but only use it for skunks and coyotes. There are other ways to dispatch critters that don't involve blood which makes fur handling much easier..

dave asks..."do you own and use one of Minnesota's stake drivers? Or do you use a piece of rebar?" I use a 22" piece of 5/8" all tread that is in the shape of a "T" and has the long end ground down to fit inside the super stakes. The "t" part is a handle for you so you don't smack your hand. I leave the all thread stick up about 2" above the handle. DO NOT use rebar. It chips and rolls and pieces fly off. It's cheap and common but if you like your eyes don't use it.

dave asks... "Can you give me a link to find #2 USA chain?" www.minntrapprod.com/Chain/products/188/ I buy all my stuff from minnesota trapline products.

dave asks... " How deep do you drive the chainstake? (I realize it's soil dependent....but "normally") You are correct! It depends on the soil. In the clay , rocky and good topsoil we generally have here in Lancaster county I drive them about 10" in sand or muddy soft soils I drive it the full 16" to the bottom swivel.

I don't know where you will be trapping dave but if you have a good number of coyotes or a good chance of catching one I would buy no smaller then a 1.75 coil spring trap and do all the mods I mentioned and even bubble weld all 4 jaw tips to be sure the yote doesn't pop the jaws out of the frame. If you can't or don't have access to a welder the MB550 traps are the best for a fox trapper that has a good chance of pinching a coyote. They are pricey but well worth the money! They are by far the best trap on the market IMHO and very rarely do you have to even tune them out of the box!

Another thing you will need is a catch pole to release non target or pets caught by accident. Because it will happen. I made my own using this link. I made 3 for about $18 from stuff I got at Lowes. I gave my brother & stepdad each one. I made them 4 seasons ago & they are still working fine. Also you can make you own sifter out of 1x4 pine and use 1/4" square steel screen.

I also use a homemade stake puller made out of good 1 1/2" pipe with a piece of 1 1/2" x 10" long angle iron on the end and a good chain 12" long with a small chain hook tht fits the #2 chain links. Weld it onto the pipe about 18" up from the foot and make the pipe about 50" long. I hook the hook as close to the super stake as I can. Just make sure it's below the last swivel. I wrap the chain around the pipe and get it as tight to the ground as I can. Then pull up on the pipe and as long as you are pulling the chain stake straight up it can and will be removed. I have used the same chain stakes for 5 seasons with only 1 being lost and that was because the frost went 24" deep.

[davet]

Thanks LB. I will have a better than 50% chance of trapping a coyote. Probably more around 70%. Heck, I have a "flock" of 'em only a mile (as the crow flys) from my home. I know they are responsible for the decimaiton of the turkey and we hardly see any spring fawn for long. (Could be the double secret probation PGC Mt Lion program though. fighting0092 ) But again, thanks for you response. I feel much more confident getting prepped for this season.

Dave

[lanceoutfitters]

Davet, I have been trapping all my life. Long before I became an outfitter I was a trapper. I have tons of opinions, theories, experiences and stories. I trap every day from November through most of March. My line runs anywhere from 50-250 miles round trip. I have tried adult of different traps, baits lures, sets and equipment. If you have any questions feel free to give me a pm with your number and we can talk further. I am known to be a 100% efficient seeking strategist with perfectionist visionary qualities.